Haudenosaunee heritage commands attention at NYFW

NEW YORK CITY — Designer and entrepreneur Mary Homer had a dream – “one day I’m going to do fashion. One day I’m going to do clothes, purses, high heels and hats – all of it.” 

And the Oneida County-based designer’s “one day” was realized on Sept. 14, when she debuted collections from her labels, Homer Couture and Beading Wolves, at Flying Solo’s New York Fashion Week 2025 show. The collection, titled “Onyota’a:ká: O:tsíste,” which translates to Oneida Fire, marked an important personal moment for the designer as well as for the Indigenous community’s representation in the fashion industry. 

Homer, a member of the Oneida Nation’s Wolf clan, presented a collection that showcased Haudenosaunee traditions with the polish expected on an international runway. The ribbon-embroidered skirts and beaded neckties and purses carried cultural weight, and her tailoring was a mastery in technical precision. The collection featured eight looks in total, including designs for both men and women.    

Homer stayed close to her heritage, with traditional beading and ribbon work techniques passed down through two generations in her family, remaining central to her designs. The pieces were inspired by Homer’s past designs and causes she believed in, including spotlighting the Missing and Murdered Indigenous Women (MMIW), an initiative focused on unsolved cases that haven’t attracted widespread interest.

A recognizable symbol of the MMIW movement is the human handprint, which stands for a way to protest the violence and injustice experienced by Indigenous women. Homer’s designs incorporated this symbol by including a handprint on the back of men’s jackets and across the front of women’s corsets. By placing these elements in dialogue with high-fashion cuts and structured silhouettes, Homer showed that Indigenous artistry belongs in the international conversation about how fashion can give a voice to underrepresented communities. 

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“We came to New York to represent our families, our nations and our gifts — to share with the world what can become of one little bead,” she said.

Flying Solo’s production was smooth, professional and designed to spotlight a wide mix of voices. Besides Homer, the lineup included many independent designers, with a mix of ready-to-wear, avant-garde couture and accessories. The show moved at a steady pace and the variation kept audiences engaged, while giving Homer’s blend of tradition and modernity a clear place to shine. 

Homer’s show contributors included hair and make-up designer Jessica Tarbell of Black Wolf Lash and Esthetics and models Kyla Smoke, Dakota Bluewolf, Hanna Manning Riviere, Dajaveon Bellamy, Janice Cook, Julia Bluewolf, Laurah Winder and Matthew Dillon.

NYFW’s value lies in its ambition and its breadth. It provides designers outside the mainstream a chance for global visibility, offering resources that many independent brands could not access otherwise. Homer presented a collection defined by clarity, craft and cultural respect, showing both her evolution as a designer and the impact of commanding a stage in the fashion capital of the world. And with the biggest stage of Fashion Week now wrapped up, Homer remains laser-focused on her vision for the future of her labels.

“I’m excited to see Homer Couture grow into something great; a unique Haudenosaunee-inspired handmade legacy brand for my children and grandchildren to one day help me keep building and growing,” Homer said. “I am reaching for the stars, and keep being inspired by artists, nature [and] family.”